Kanjut Sar – One of the Highest Unfrequented Peaks of the Karakoram
Kanjut Sar is a 7,760-meter (25,459 ft) high mountain located in the Hispar Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram mountains, in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is the 26th highest mountain in the world and the 11th highest in Pakistan, yet it remains remarkably remote and rarely climbed.
Etymology and Location
The name “Kanjut Sar” refers to the historical Kanjut region (modern-day Hunza). "Sar" means "top" or "peak" in Burushaski. The mountain lies close to the Shimshal Pass, west of the Kanjut Glacier, and northeast of Trivor and Distaghil Sar.
Quick Facts
- Elevation: 7,760 meters (25,459 feet)
- Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram
- First Ascent: 1959 by a Japanese expedition led by Masao Okabe
- Location: Near Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan
- Coordinates: 36.22°N, 75.32°E
Climbing History
The first successful ascent was made in 1959 by a Japanese team led by Masao Okabe. The route followed the southeast ridge and involved extensive snow and ice climbing under harsh conditions.
Kanjut Sar has seen very few ascents since then, largely due to its remoteness, complex glaciers, and extreme weather. The mountain remains one of the least explored among Pakistan's 7,500m+ peaks.
Geography and Surrounding Peaks
The peak rises above the Kanjut and Hispar Glaciers, in the vicinity of the Shimshal Valley. Nearby major peaks include Yukshin Gardan Sar, Trivor, and Momhil Sar.
Access and Trekking Approach
- Fly to Gilgit or travel by road from Islamabad
- Drive to Shimshal or Hispar village
- Trek via Yazghil Glacier and Kanjut Glacier to Base Camp (7–9 days)
Climbing Route
The southeast ridge is considered the most feasible route. It involves:
- Crossing glacier terrain with crevasses
- Setting up multiple high camps
- Steep snow and ice slopes (45–60 degrees)
Suggested Expedition Itinerary
- Days 1–2: Arrival in Gilgit and drive to Shimshal
- Days 3–10: Trek to Kanjut Sar Base Camp
- Days 11–30: Acclimatization, load carrying, summit attempts
- Days 31–36: Return trek and departure
Permit Requirements
Climbing Kanjut Sar requires a permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan Council. The presence of a liaison officer and coordination with the Pakistan Alpine Club is mandatory. Only registered agencies can facilitate the expedition.
Why Climb Kanjut Sar?
- Extreme remoteness and adventure
- One of the least climbed 7,700m+ peaks in the world
- Scenic beauty of Shimshal and Hispar regions
Best Viewing Points
- Shimshal Valley Trek
- From Yazghil Glacier or aerial views
Conclusion
Kanjut Sar represents the untouched wilds of the Karakoram. For high-altitude climbers seeking solitude, challenge, and raw nature, Kanjut Sar offers one of the last true mountaineering frontiers.
To organize an expedition, contact hushe.com.pk for logistics, guides, and permits.