Ogre II Peak (Baintha Brakk South)
Height: Approximately 6,800 meters (22,310 feet)
Location: Panmah Muztagh, Karakoram Range, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Coordinates: 35.731°N, 75.922°E
Overview
Ogre II, also known as Baintha Brakk South, is the lesser-known but equally dramatic twin of the infamous Baintha Brakk (The Ogre). Though slightly lower in elevation, Ogre II features similarly sharp granite towers and icy walls that present significant technical climbing challenges.
This peak lies directly south of The Ogre and forms a part of the same massive rock formation. While overshadowed by its more famous sibling, Ogre II remains one of the most untouched and formidable peaks in the Karakoram.
Climbing History
- Little recorded information exists regarding official ascents of Ogre II.
- Some attempts have been made during expeditions to The Ogre or surrounding spires, but successful summits are rare and unverified.
- Its sharp granite ridges and poor weather conditions make it a challenging objective for even expert climbers.
Geological and Climbing Features
- Composed of hard granite with ice couloirs
- Extremely steep rock faces and exposed ridges
- Highly technical alpine routes; suitable for expert climbers only
Access Route
The expedition begins from Skardu, followed by a 5–7 day trek from Askole along the Baltoro and Biafo Glaciers. From base camp below Baintha Brakk, Ogre II can be approached via side glaciers and ridge routes.
Best Time to Visit
Mid-June to August is the standard window for expeditions in this region, although the weather remains unpredictable and snow conditions can be treacherous.
Nearby Peaks
- Baintha Brakk (The Ogre I) – 7,285m
- Latok I – 7,145m
- Latok II – 7,108m
- Uzun Brakk – ~6,400m
Permit and Logistics
All peaks above 6,500 meters require a permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan Council. Climbers must also hire a liaison officer and register their expedition in advance. Local support (porters and guides) is available from Askole or Hushe.
Conclusion
Ogre II is one of the hidden giants of the Karakoram — rarely climbed and barely explored. For elite mountaineers looking for a new frontier in high-altitude rock and ice climbing, Ogre II remains a dream challenge and a stunning symbol of raw alpine beauty.
Page by Hushe.com.pk – Showcasing the untouched peaks of the Karakoram.