Kunyang Chhish
Height: 7,852 meters (25,761 feet)
Location: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram Range, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Coordinates: 36.198°N, 75.307°E
Overview
Kunyang Chhish is the second-highest peak in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountains in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. At 7,852 meters, it ranks as the 21st highest mountain in the world and the 8th highest in Pakistan. The peak towers above the Kunyang Glacier and is known for its technical climbing difficulty, harsh weather conditions, and rarely successful expeditions.
Climbing History
The mountain was first successfully climbed in **1971** by a Polish expedition comprising Andrzej Zawada and Janusz Kurczab. Despite several attempts in subsequent decades, it remains an infrequently climbed mountain due to avalanche danger, unstable weather, and technical challenges.
In 1988, a Japanese team ascended Kunyang Chhish East (7,400 m), one of the subsidiary summits. Another notable attempt was made in 2003 by a Swiss team, which had to retreat due to bad weather. The main summit has only been climbed a handful of times since the first ascent.
Climbing Routes
- Southwest Face (Normal Route): First climbed in 1971, very technical with multiple avalanche zones.
- Northwest Ridge: Unclimbed and extremely dangerous due to icefalls.
- Kunyang Chhish East: Considered a difficult peak in its own right, climbed from a separate route.
Geographical Features
The peak overlooks the **Kunyang Glacier**, a large ice flow feeding into the Hispar Glacier. The area surrounding Kunyang Chhish includes several other notable peaks such as Pumari Chhish and Ultar Sar. It offers dramatic alpine scenery, with sharp ridges, corniced summits, and sheer rock faces.
Access and Logistics
Access to Kunyang Chhish is typically via the town of **Nagar** or **Hopar Valley**, followed by trekking along the **Barpu Glacier** and **Hispar Glacier**. The base camp is set at approximately 4,700 meters and requires acclimatization.
Fun Fact
Kunyang Chhish has one of the highest vertical reliefs in the Karakoram. From base camp to summit, the elevation gain is over 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) in a straight line.