Latok II – The Stunning Sibling of the Karakoram Giants
Height: 7,108 meters (23,320 feet)
Location: Panmah Muztagh, Karakoram Range, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Coordinates: 35.75°N, 75.90°E
Overview
Latok II is the second highest peak in the Latok group, located in the remote and rugged Panmah Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram. Although slightly shorter than Latok I, Latok II impresses climbers with its massive vertical rock walls and complex mixed terrain. Its west face, in particular, is a near-vertical slab that challenges climbers with pure rock climbing skills rarely seen at such high altitude.
Climbing History
- The first ascent of Latok II was completed in 1981 by a German-Italian team led by
and Giorgio Bertone. - The team ascended via the Southwest Ridge, a complex route requiring serious technical climbing on ice and rock.
- In 1997, Alexander Huber (Germany) and Thomas Huber made a bold ascent of Latok II's west face — a vertical wall at 7,000m, in a legendary expedition that gained global respect in alpine climbing circles.
Physical Features
Latok II is notable for its sharp ridges, icy flanks, and vertical granite walls. It towers dramatically above the Choktoi Glacier and offers a majestic backdrop to the entire Panmah Valley. The west face, in particular, is known for high-altitude free climbing challenges that rival any in the world.
Climbing Routes
- Southwest Ridge: First ascent route, mixed snow and rock with steep technical sections.
- West Face: One of the most difficult big-wall climbs attempted at such altitude; completed by the Huber brothers.
- North Couloir: Rarely attempted due to avalanche danger and unstable ice.
Base Camp and Access
Latok II is accessed via the Choktoi Glacier. Expeditions typically begin in Skardu, followed by a jeep journey to Askole and a 5–6 day trek through the Panmah region to reach Latok Base Camp near Baintha.
Best Climbing Season
Mid-July to mid-August is the preferred time for attempting Latok II due to slightly more stable weather and manageable snow conditions.
Permit and Regulations
Latok II requires a climbing permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan Council. All foreign expeditions must hire a licensed tour operator, and a liaison officer is mandatory. Environmental and rescue fees also apply.
Neighboring Peaks
- Latok I – 7,145m
- Ogre I (Baintha Brakk) – 7,285m
- Uzun Brakk – ~6,400m
- Latok III & IV – prominent sub-peaks of the Latok range
Legacy and Reputation
Latok II is often regarded as one of the finest examples of high-altitude granite big-wall climbing in the world. It draws elite climbers from across the globe who seek the combination of extreme exposure, beauty, and technical difficulty. The legacy of the Huber brothers’ climb remains one of the most iconic ascents in the Karakoram.
Published by Hushe.com.pk – Your gateway to the magnificent mountains of Pakistan.