Link Sar – Conquered After Decades in the Karakoram
Elevation: 7,041 meters (23,103 feet)
Location: Charakusa Valley, Hushe, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Coordinates: 35.438°N, 76.388°E
Overview
Link Sar is one of the most elegant and challenging peaks in the Karakoram. For decades, this 7,041-meter mountain stood unclimbed despite numerous attempts by elite international alpinists. Towering above the Charakusa Glacier near Hushe, it presents sheer granite walls, knife-edge ridges, and dangerous avalanche-prone faces.
Link Sar remained one of Pakistan’s most coveted unclimbed peaks until July 2019, when a strong American team led by Graham Zimmerman, Steve Swenson, Mark Richey, and Chris Wright finally reached its summit via a new route on the Southeast Face.
Climbing History
- First attempts began in the late 1970s and 1980s, including efforts by Japanese and British teams.
- 2001–2017: Multiple attempts by international climbers, including Steve Swenson, all unsuccessful due to poor weather and technical difficulty.
- First Ascent: July 31, 2019, by Zimmerman, Swenson, Richey, and Wright. They spent 7 days on the wall and made a clean ascent with alpine style ethics.
Climbing Route
The 2019 American team climbed a new route up the Southeast Face, involving mixed climbing, rock, and ice. The route required supreme technical skill, with rock sections rated up to 5.10 and ice up to WI4/M6.
Key Route Stats:
- Base Camp: ~4,100m at Charakusa Glacier
- Camp I: 5,200m
- Camp II: 6,100m
- Summit: 7,041m
- Total Climb Duration: ~7 days
- Descent: 2 days via rappels
Location and Access
Link Sar is located near the confluence of the Charakusa and Nangmah valleys in Hushe, Baltistan. The expedition typically begins from Skardu, followed by a 6–7 hour jeep ride to Hushe. From there, a 3-day trek along the Charakusa Glacier leads to the base camp.
Why is Link Sar Important?
Link Sar was one of the last high, prominent, technical peaks in Pakistan that remained unclimbed. Its successful ascent was hailed globally by the alpine climbing community. The mountain remains a symbol of perseverance and technical mountaineering skill.
Nearby Peaks
- K6 – 7,282m
- K7 – 6,934m
- Laila Peak – 6,096m
- Drifika – 6,447m
Permit Information
As Link Sar exceeds 6,500m and lies near a sensitive border area, it requires a special climbing permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan Council and the Ministry of Tourism. A Liaison Officer (LO) is mandatory, along with environmental and porter regulations.
Best Climbing Season
July to early August offers the best weather window, with relatively stable skies and less avalanche risk. Earlier attempts often failed due to prolonged bad weather, which makes timing critical.
Quick Facts
- Height: 7,041 meters
- Range: Karakoram, Charakusa subrange
- First Ascent: July 31, 2019
- Climbing Grade: 5.10 / WI4 / M6 (very technical)
- Ideal Duration: 25–30 days expedition
Conclusion
Link Sar is not just a mountain – it is a story of relentless ambition. With decades of failed attempts and one of the most celebrated alpine ascents of recent history, it has become a legendary peak in Pakistan’s mountaineering narrative. Only the most experienced climbers should attempt it, with full preparedness and respect for its remote grandeur.
Presented by Hushe.com.pk – Discover the untamed beauty and climbing legends of the Karakoram.